Friday, January 25, 2013

Angel Food Cake - Straight From Heaven, Not From A Box (FAK Friday)

Medium Peaks - Meringue
Once you know how to make a meringue, you might as well have a super power

Angel Food Cake and I, we have a bit of a history. Honestly, we got off to a rocky start. My first attempts were high on flavor, but they quite literally fell flat. They were heavy, and dense, and not really very angelic... I made cake after cake - dozens of them! - trying to make one worthy of its heavenly title.

I became obsessed.

I read every recipe, memorized every tip and trick... I watched every video, and practiced every technique. I bought new oven thermometers, triple checked my measurements, and danced around a bonfire chanting hakuna matata... but still, the cake was a flop.

All I wanted was a soft as down, light as air, halo-wearing, beaming-with-inner-light angel food cake. Was that too much to ask?

I hate to admit stuff like this. It isn't like me to fail over, and over, and over, and over... it just isn't my style. If something goes wrong, I find what it is and I fix it. Simple as that. But not this time, it seemed. I was stumped. Beat. Confounded. More than that, I was ashamed - I mean, come on! How hard can it be?

"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." - Thomas Edison

Finally I got up the nerve to revisit my arch nemesis, The Angel Food, determined to conquer it once and for all. I strapped on my apron, pulled up my oven mitts, and adorned myself with the flour-dusted war paint of my peoples. What I discovered that day in the kitchen was nothing short of a revelation - the problem I faced was not with a cake, but with myself. Somewhere along the way, I had made a mistake, an oversight, and convinced myself so thoroughly that I knew what I was doing it became impossible to see. My failure, as it turns out, was in trying too damn hard.

(If you must know, a trusted source gave the wrong amount of flour, which I was convinced was correct - too little flour in an angel food cake will cause it to rise in the oven, then collapse back on itself because there isn't enough structure to support the meringue).

Did I mention I hate to admit these things? It took me a year and a half, and countless test cakes to realize this one simple mistake. So why do I bother telling you? Because I don't regret a thing. There's an important lesson to be found here, and that is the ability to better recognize my own blind spots. Sometimes you stare at something long enough, you get tunnel vision. I also embarked on a journey I never would have otherwise gone on to learn everything I could about how to make the perfect angel food. And you know what? It's not that hard!


Heavenly Angel Food CakeAngel Food Cake
Soft as down, light as air, halo-wearing, beaming-with-inner-light angel food cake


It's FAK Friday (Feeding my Appetite for Knowledge), and this week I want to share everything I know about Angel Food Cake. Last week I talked about how to leaven baked goods with baking soda, baking powder, and yeast... unlike other cakes, Angel Foods are leavened entirely by air! I made some rookie mistakes when first attempting this cake, and in my quest to figure out what I was doing wrong I became familiar with every aspect of what makes an Angel Food great. Now I'm a meringue-making master! Hopefully the tips and tricks I've learned along the way will provide the answers for anyone else struggling with these light and airy cakes, and make the whole process a little easier for those attempting them for the first time. Though it may seem complicated at first, perfect Angel Food is well worth the effort.  I've tried to be as detailed as I can, but if something is missing or you have any questions, please leave them in the comments below!

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Angel Food Cake
Everything You Need To Know, Including The Recipe


Angel food cakes are made up of three main things - egg whites, sugar, and cake flour. They are the lightest and airiest of all cakes, and thus are said to be the 'food of the angels'. They are naturally dairy and fat free, but are commonly served with a a dollop of irony - fresh whipped cream. There are a few key things you need to know to make a good angel food cake, but once you understand the basics the rest can be fairly simple.

I've included just about everything I know, but if you have any questions don't hesitation to ask. At the bottom of the post you'll find the recipe - who knows, tonight you could be dining with angels!

The Equipment: 
Angel Foods are baked in something called a 'tube pan', or sometimes even called an 'angel food pan'. These have a hollow tube running through the middle which allows the cake to rise and bake evenly. Whatever you do, do not buy a non-stick tube pan, and do not grease your pan. For an angel food cake to rise, it literally needs to climb the sides of the pan. Greasing the pan would make that impossible, and would also deflate your delicate meringue.
You'll also need a hand or stand mixer (whisking manually is possible, but I don't recommend it), and a large metal mixing bowl. I prefer a hand mixer because it's easy to get down to the bottom of the bowl, where some stand mixers can't reach. 
It is extremely important when whipping egg whites that there be no fat, grease, oil, or yolks anywhere! Before making your angel food, make sure all of your bowls, beaters, and utensils are thoroughly cleaned. After a quick wash, I like to put my whisk and everything into my mixing bowl, then fill it with warm water and a splash of white vinegar and swish everything around. The vinegar will help remove any traces of grease, and after a quick rinse and dry everything is ready to use. 

The Flour:  
Angel food cakes are made with a special kind of flour called cake flour. Cake flour is very finely milled, and is made from something called soft wheat, which contains less gluten than regular wheat. Less gluten means the flour won't become tough or chewy, which is important for delicate cakes, and the lighter texture makes it easier to incorporate into a meringue.
Sifting
Sifting the Flour


To properly measure the flour, spoon it lightly into a measuring cup, then level the surface - do not pack the flour into the cup, as this will result in too much flour and a dense, heavier cake. Alternatively, measure the flour by weight using a kitchen scale. This is the most accurate method. 

When making angel food, your flour should be sifted multiple times to incorporate air and make it even lighter. Some recipes will tell you to sift upwards of ten times, but at some point you have to say enough is enough. I find you only really need to sift 2-3 times to get good results.
I like to sift my flour over a sheet of parchment paper, which makes it easy to funnel back into my sifter without making a mess.

The Meringue: 
Angel Food Cakes are made up primarily of egg whites, which are whipped with sugar (and a little cream of tartar or other acid) to make a meringue. The most important thing when whipping egg whites is that there be no fat, grease, or oil anywhere near them - be extra careful when separating your eggs to not break the yolks. The best way to do this is to use three separate (and clean) bowls. Separate your white into bowl A., deposit the yolk in bowl B., and then dump the cleanly separated white into bowl C., and repeat. This way if a bit of yolk gets into bowl A., you'll have contaminated one egg white instead of the whole batch. If a yolk breaks, discard the white (or set it aside and make an omelet), clean the bowl, and try again. 
Separating Egg Whites
Separating the Whites
Egg whites can also be frozen in ice cube trays and then stored in the freezer in zip-top baggies for up to a few months. Whenever I make ice cream or custards which use a lot of egg yolks, I save the whites in the freezer. If you plan to use frozen egg whites, thaw them at room temperature well in advance. Whether fresh or frozen, egg whites whip best at room temperature or slightly above - you can set them out in a sealed container to warm up slowly, or you can set your eggs in a bowl of warm water for 10-15 minutes prior to separating them.
(There's a debate about whether or not pasteurized, cartoned egg whites can be used. Some say they work like a charm, others say not at all. In my experience they make decent meringues, but not as good as freshly separated whites. If you choose to try pasteurized egg whites, be certain to read the list of ingredients - avoid anything that contains water, egg 'product' or other additives. Look for 100% egg whites.) 

There are three stages to whipping egg whites - they are called soft peaks, medium peaks, and stiff peaks. You can recognize these by stopping the beaters, and lifting them slowly out of the meringue. If the whites fall back on themselves, they are soft peaks. If they hold their shape but droop at the tip, they are medium peaks. If they stand straight up without drooping, they are stiff peaks. If whipped too long, the whites will lose their glossy sheen, begin to deflate, and eventually turn into an almost styrofoam consistency - this is called 'over whipped' and is not good! To help prevent your whites from over whipping, keep a close eye on them and beat at medium (not full) speed. If your whites become over whipped, discard them and start again.  See the photo below for a visual of soft, medium, and stiff peaks.
Guide To Whipping Meringue
Soft Peaks                                                   Medium Peaks                                                     Stiff Peaks
Protein Structure of Eggwhites
Soft Peaks                                                   Medium Peaks                                                     Stiff Peaks
When egg whites are whipped, air forms tiny bubbles trapped within a structure of proteins. You can think of them like the expanding ball in the photos above. These proteins stretch and expand around the air to create a fluffy, cloud-like meringue. The proteins in egg whites are most flexible when they're at room temperature, so be sure to take them out of the fridge at least an hour or two before you're ready to make your meringue. And remember, if even a single drop of fat or yolk is present, the oil will grease the proteins and they will collapse. Imagine a pyramid of cheerleaders trying to hold each other up... now imagine them all slippery with grease. See? Wait, don't get too carried away with that thought!
When making an angel food cake, medium peaks are best. When the cake goes into the oven, all those bubbles of air will expand, causing the cake to rise... but if the meringue is taken all the way to stiff peaks, the proteins will have already stretched to their maximum, and they won't be able to make way for the expanding bubbles, resulting in a denser, chewier cake. The photo at the top of this post shows a good level of medium peaks for making angel foods.

The Sugar: 
The sugar is separated into two parts - half is added to the meringue, and half is sifted with the flour. Adding the sugar to the meringue helps to stabilize the protein structure, and sifting the rest with the flour helps to lighten the flour mixture and make it easier to incorporate. Because angel food cakes contain no fat at all, sugar also acts as a tenderizer, making the cake soft and delicate instead of rubbery like, well... scrambled egg whites! 
Many recipes (including the one given below) suggest spinning regular granulated sugar in a food processor to create super-fine sugar. This will help the sugar incorporate quickly into the meringue, but is not absolutely necessary. Plain granulated sugar will work in a pinch. (Some recipes suggest using confectioner's sugar, which contains corn starch. Corn starch can help stabilize a meringue even further, but I find I prefer the texture of a cake made with regular granulated sugar).

Folding: 
Once the flour is sifted and the meringue is whipped, the two need to come together. This is done by lightly sifting or spooning the flour over the meringue, and folding gently with a flexible spatula. To fold, cut through the middle of the meringue with the edge of the spatula, then bring the spatula towards you up the side of the bowl, literally folding the meringue up and over itself. Give the bowl a turn, and repeat the motion. Down the middle, up the side. Once you have a fresh surface of meringue, sift more flour over the top and repeat. The goal of folding is to incorporate the flour as gently as possible, so as not to pop all those delicate air bubbles and deflate the meringue. Try to do this in as few motions as possible, and do not stir! As soon as all of the flour is incorporated, stop. Don't worry if it looks lumpy or rough, it's okay.

Angel Food (Upside-Down) Cake
Check it out - I made an upside-down cake!
Baking:  
The temperature at which an angel food is baked is very important - if it's too low, the cake won't rise like it should. If it's too high, the top of the cake will set before the cake has fully risen, and it will stifle itself. Either way, the result is a less-than-airy angel food.
The temperature that works best for me is right around 350° F, but I've seen recipes ranging anywhere from 325° F - 375° F - what works for some might not work for others, especially if you're in a humid climate or at high altitude. If you're doing everything else right and your cake is still failing, try changing the temperature.
After baking, angel foods are immediately inverted (turned completely upside-down) to cool. This can be done by balancing the center tube of the pan over a bottle of wine or vinegar (see the photo below), or some angel food pans come with little metal feet which will hold the cake upside down right on the counter. My pan has those little feet, but I still prefer the old-fashioned bottle trick. Suspending the cake upside down while it cools helps the cake hold on to its height, and makes for a lighter, airier texture.

Altitude & Humidity: 
Angel food can be somewhat sensitive to external conditions. If you live in a particularly humid area it may be necessary to add a dash more flour, or a touch of corn starch, to help stabilize your meringue. If you live at high altitudes you may find it necessary to increase the temperature slightly, or reduce the amount of sugar. Unfortunately, I don't have much experience baking in these conditions, so I can't give any exact instructions!

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Perfect Angel Food Cake
Perfect Angel Food


Heavenly Angel Food Cake
Adapted from the gods... and Alton Brown
Makes one 10" angel food cake

1 cup cake flour (112g.), sifted after measuring
1 3/4 cups granulated sugar (about 12.5oz. by weight)
1/4 tsp. table salt
1 1/2 cups egg whites (about 12 ounces by weight, or about 9-10 large eggs), room temperature*
1 1/2 tsp. cream of tartar
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1/2 tsp. almond extract (or other flavoring, such as orange, lemon, or more vanilla)

*Many recipes call for "12 large egg whites", but I find that to be almost half a cup too much liquid. Perhaps I have ginormous chickens, but either way I always prefer to measure by volume because size can vary so greatly.

Method
1.   Preheat your oven to 350° F. Clean your mixing bowl, beaters, and utensils thoroughly, and rinse with warm water and a splash of white vinegar to remove any grease. Separate your egg whites and bring them to room temperature.
2.    Spin the sugar in a blender or food processor for 30-60 seconds, or until finely ground (not powdered). Add half of the sugar to the cake flour, and set the other half aside.
3.    Sift together the flour, half of the sugar, and salt. Sift at least 2-3 times to make sure everything is evenly mixed and thoroughly aerated. I like to do this over a sheet of parchment paper so I can easily funnel the flour back into my sifter again and again.
4.    Begin whipping your egg whites at low to medium speed. Once they start to become frothy, add the cream of tartar and increase the speed of your mixer to medium-high. I prefer to mix at medium speed, to ensure my egg whites don't become over whipped.
5.    Once the egg whites start to look fluffy and white, sprinkle in the reserved sugar 1-2 TBSP at a time, while mixing. Once all of the sugar is added, the meringue should look glossy and billowy. Continue to whip until medium peaks form (see above notes and photos for how to tell when you have medium peaks). In the last couple minutes of whipping, add your extracts.
6.   Sift about 1/3rd of the flour/sugar/salt mixture over the top of the meringue, and fold gently with a flexible rubber spatula. Fold quickly and lightly so as not to deflate the meringue (see above notes on how to fold). Once the flour is just barely incorporated, stop folding - it's okay if it still looks a little shaggy.
7.   Gently pour your angel food batter into a clean, ungreased angel food or tube pan. Gently twist the pan back and forth to settle the batter - this will get rid of any large pockets of air, and will also ensure that the batter is in full contact with the sides of the pan, which will help it rise. Whatever you do, do not drop the pan against the counter, as this will pop the tiny air bubbles in the meringue!
8.    Bake the cake on the middle-lower rack for about 35 minutes, or until the top is evenly golden brown. Do not open the oven door during the first 30 minutes of baking, as the gust of cool air may deflate your cake!
9.    Once done, immediately invert the entire pan over a bottle of wine or vinegar (some angel food pans come with little metal feet, and can be flipped upside down right on the counter). Let the cake cool upside down completely.
10.   Once cool, use a thin knife to cut around the edges of the pan. Remove the cake from the sides of the pan, then cut underneath to separate it from the bottom/tube part. Slice with a serrated knife, and serve as is or with fresh fruit and whipped cream. Enjoy!

Once completely cooled, angel food cake can be wrapped in plastic and stored at room temperature for up to a few days.




Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Banana Nut Bread - Home Sweet Home


Banana Nut Bread
Banana Nut Bread - recipe in post

"Home is a name, a word, it is a strong one; stronger than magician ever spoke, or spirit ever answered to, in the strongest conjuration." 
-Charles Dickens


There's something powerful about the word "home".  We strive to define it as something bigger, something more than simple shelter and a place to kick off one's shoes. It is a place we create for ourselves, something uniquely our own, where we can feel, well... at home.

For me, home means the house I've made my own, the place I've become such a part of, here with The FiancĂ©. Our own little niche in the world. It is also a feeling, something he and I carry with us wherever we go, whenever we're together. But it also means something else... home is a memory. It is my childhood. A nostalgic place where I'm about six years old, building couch forts in my parent's living room. It is a place where life is easy, and everything is bright and vivid and loud.

There's something about banana nut bread reminds me of that home, of my childhood... I don't really remember my parents baking it, nor did I learn to make it from some hand-written heirloom of a recipe... but I do remember cutting thick, warm slices of it in the mornings with my mother, and sneaking seconds (and sometimes thirds) when I thought she wasn't looking.

She knew, of course.

Now that I'm all grow'd up, banana bread is no longer some elusive thing that appears in the house from time to time - it's something I am fully capable of bringing into reality out of simple ingredients I always have on hand. I still kind of miss my couch fort, but growing up was so worth it.

Banana Nut Bread and Home
"Winter is the time for comfort, for good food and warmth, for the touch of a friendly hand and for a talk beside the fire: it is a time for home." - Edith Sitwell


Recipe Notes: Banana nut bread is best made with very soft, ripe bananas. Whenever I have a banana that's gotten a little too brown for my liking, I peel it, put it in a zip-top bag, and freeze it. Once thawed, the bananas are easy to mash and extra sweet - perfect for banana bread!

Banana Nut Bread

1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1/2 cup whole wheat flour (or more all purpose)
1 1/4 cups walnuts, toasted
3/4 cup granulated sugar, plus more for the pan
3/4 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. nutmeg*
1/4 tsp. orange or lemon zest*
3 large bananas, very ripe, soft, and speckled (see recipe note)
1/4 cup sour cream (or plain yogurt)
2 large eggs
6 TBSP unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus more for greasing the pan
2 tsp. vanilla extract

Optional - chocolate chips, cinnamon, splash of rum, etc.

*I love to add nutmeg and citrus zest to my banana nut bread to give it a little more dimension. I use very little, just enough to make you wonder what it is that makes the bread so special, but if you prefer to bring these flavors to the forefront feel free to double the amount.

Method
1.    Preheat oven to 350f., and toast the walnuts on a baking sheet for 5-10 minutes, or until fragrant. When they're cool enough to handle, chop the walnuts roughly and set aside.
2.    Grease the bottom and sides of a 9x5inch loaf pan, then sprinkle about a TBSP of sugar into the pan and tilt the pan to all sides to coat evenly.
3.    In a large bowl, stir together the flours, sugar, baking soda, walnuts, salt, nutmeg, and orange zest. In another bowl, mash together the bananas (thawed if they were frozen), sour cream, eggs, butter, and vanilla.
4.    Pour the wet ingredients over the dry, and fold them together with a rubber spatula - be very careful not to over-mix! Stir until the flour is just incorporated.
5.    Pour into your prepared loaf pan and bake for 55-60 minutes, or until a tooth pic inserted in the center comes out only slightly wet - my advice for banana bread is to keep it a little under-baked so it's nice and moist. Once done, let cool for 10-15 minutes, then remove from the pan and set on a wire rack to finish cooling. Cut into absurdly thick slices, and enjoy while warm.

Once completely cooled, banana bread can be wrapped tightly in plastic wrapped and kept at room temperature for up to a few days.





Friday, January 18, 2013

Baking Soda, Baking Powder, and Yeast - Blowing Bubbles In The Name of Science (FAK Friday)

Bubbles!



Leaven (lev-en): 1. a substance (as yeast) used to produce fermentation in dough or liquid. Or, a material (as baking powder) used to produce a gas that lightens dough or batter. Something that modifies or lightens. From the Latin, levare, meaning: to rise.


In the kitchen, leavening means one thing: bubbles. Bubbles of gas which add lightness, and when exposed to heat expand and give rise. There are several ways to leaven baked goods, such as yeast, baking soda, baking powder, air (as in creaming together fats or whipping egg whites), and steam (as in puff pastry, where the dough is folded over and over to make thin layers which pull apart from one another when steam is released during baking). Air and steam are present in all baked goods, but often times a recipe needs something more. Here I want to talk about the most common leaveners used in the kitchen: chemical leaveners (baking soda and baking powder) and yeast (active dry yeast and 'instant' dry yeast) and what the differences are.



It's FAK Friday (Feeding my Appetite for Knowledge), and this week I've been filling my head with bubbles! No, I haven't been drinking... much. I've been wrapping my brain around how leavening works to produce light and fluffy doughs, chewy and air-pocketty breads, flaky and tender cream puffs, and everything in between. I thought I'd share the basics this week, and answer some of the most common kitchen questions out there: what's the difference between baking powder and baking soda // what's the difference between active dry yeast and instant yeast?



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Baking Soda & Baking Powder
(Chemical Leaveners)




Baking powder and baking soda fall into the category of chemical leaveners. This means they react with another substance to release carbon dioxide (gas). The gas forms trillions of tiny bubbles, which expand and give rise to baked goods. This happens very rapidly, which is why breads calling for baking powder or soda are called "quick breads".

Baking Soda - is the chemical sodium bicarbonate. An alkaline compound which, when mixed with an acid, produces sodium acetate, water, and (you guessed it) carbon dioxide. Think of the volcano science experiment, where baking soda is mixed with vinegar to cause an eruption - that's the reaction we're talking about! Baking soda is therefore used in recipes which also contain an acidic ingredient, such as vinegar, lemon juice, buttermilk, yogurt, sour cream... even honey and molasses are acidic enough to cause a reaction.

When a recipe calls for baking soda, it must be mixed and baked immediately or else the gases will escape and the leavening power will be lost.


Baking soda is also great for cleaning messes and putting out fires - my mom always kept a box next to the stove to douse any unruly flames!



Baking Powder - is similar to baking soda, in that it contains sodium bicarbonate... but it also contains an acidic compound, as well as a little starch to keep the mixture from clumping. When mixed with water, the sodium bicarbonate and acid combine and react to create carbon dioxide. Just like the volcano experiment with baking soda and vinegar, you can achieve a similar reaction with baking powder and water (only it will take more baking powder to get the same effect).
Baking powder is typically made with about one third sodium bicarbonate and two thirds acid. That means if you were to substitute baking powder for baking soda in a recipe, you would need to use three times the amount called for to achieve the same amount of rise... which will likely have a not-so-good affect on the flavor of whatever you're making, so I don't recommend it.
Baking powders are generally labeled "double-acting" - meaning that part of the gasses are released when mixed with water, and the rest when exposed to heat. This means that a portion of the leavening happens in the oven. Recipes calling for baking powder (and not baking soda) can therefore be allowed to rest a little before baking without affecting the rise.

You can make your own baking powder mixture by combining 1 tsp. baking soda with 2 tsp. cream of tartar - this will make 1 TBSP of baking powder, and should be used immediately or it will lose its effectiveness. This is because the acids used in commercial baking powders are actually something called "acid salts" which do not react like an acid until they are dissolved in water. In other words, the sodium bicarbonate and acid salts play nice together until they get wet.
Keep in mind that homemade baking powder is only single-acting, meaning it will release all of its carbon dioxide as soon as it is mixed with liquid, therefore the batter should be baked immediately for best results.


Baking powder and baking soda will both lose their potency over time, especially if they're kept in warm or humid conditions, or aren't properly sealed. It is recommended that they be replaced every six months or so. Keep this in mind when using boxed mixes, such as Biscuick, as well. If the leavening agent has gone bad, you'll be baking bricks instead of biscuits!

There's also another, lesser-known chemical leavener, called Baking Ammonia. It is typically only used in smaller baked goods that are baked until completely dry, to ensure that all the ammonia gas has dissipated.



Yeast
(micro-organisms)



Yeast is the oldest form of leavening, dating back over five thousand years to the Egyptians, who used it to make their breads. Back then, it was thought to be a miracle. Fast forward a couple thousand years to the mid 1800's, when Louis Pasteur (commonly known as the inventor of pasteurization) discovered the process of fermentation.

What is fermentation? Simply put, it is the breaking down of sugars and converting them into a variety of gasses and other compounds (like alcohol). For this to happen, there must be something acting upon the sugars, and that something is yeast. Yeast is made up of many tiny, single-celled organisms. Unlike chemical leaveners like baking soda or powder, yeast is quite literally alive. These organisms, like any living thing, need food... preferably sweet, sugary food! When mixed with sugars (like sucrose or maltose) yeast begins chowing down, breaking the complex sugars (disaccharides) into simple sugars (monosaccharides), and then converting them into carbon dioxide and alcohol. In fermenting wine, the carbon dioxide escapes into the air, but the alcohol remains. In baking, the carbon dioxide creates little bubbles and pockets within a dough, which then expand when exposed to heat. During baking, the alcohol evaporates.


Here Pacman demonstrates how yeast fermentation works. Sorta.



That's right - yeast are tiny little beings, who's sole purpose in life is to eat, and then, well... do that thing that comes after eating. But their gasses, unlike ours, are highly useful... not to mention tasty! Without yeast, the simple loaf of bread would likely never have developed into what it is today.


There are several different types of yeast out there. The common ones we find on the shelves of the grocery store are "Active Dry Yeast" and "Instant Dry Yeast" (also called quick-rise or rapid-rise yeast). I explain the differences of the two below. There are also "fresh yeast" and "wild yeast". Fresh yeast is preferred by professional bakers, but is highly perishable and therefore less useful to home cooks. Wild yeast refers to the naturally occurring yeast organisms that live on the skins of fruits and berries (used to make wine), and in whole grain flours (used to make bread). By creating a healthy environment for the yeast (by mixing natural whole grain flour with warm water) the yeast begin to grow and multiply, feeding off the sugar and starches within the flour. This mixture can be kept alive by 'feeding' it with more flour from time to time, and is known as a sourdough starter. As the name suggests, it is added to bread recipes to create, you guessed it, sourdough! I actually made my own sourdough started back at the beginning of this blog, and you can find that post here: Jam and Sourdough


Active Dry Yeast (left) Instant Dry Yeast (right)

Active Dry Yeast and Instant Dry Yeast are nearly identical in appearance, but they actually work quite differently. I've scratched my head plenty of times over recipes calling for one or the other, or even worse not specifying which. With a better understanding of their uses, hopefully that won't be an issue!


Active Dry Yeast - is dry and granular, and needs to be rehydrated in warm water (110° F) before use. Often times a recipe will call for a small portion of the water or milk to be heated with a small amount of sugar, and mixed with the yeast until frothy and bubbly on the surface - this is a sign that the yeast is active and ready to use.
Yeast is often used in recipes that need time to rise and rest in a warm place. While the microrganisms do they're thing, they also add a unique depth and flavor, which becomes more pronounced the longer the dough proofs.
Because of the harshness of the drying process, about 25% of the yeast cells in active dry yeast are dead. For this reason it is less popular with professional bakers, who prefer to use fresh yeast (which must be kept refrigerated and is highly perishable, making it less useful for home cooks).


Instant Dry Yeast - also called quick-rise, or rapid-rise, yeast, is also dry and granular, but unlike active dry yeast it does not have to be dissolved in water before use. It can be added directly to the dry ingredients because it absorbs water much more quickly than other yeast, and will activate as the dough is being mixed.
Also unlike active dry yeast, instant yeast contains very few dead yeast cells, which means less of it is needed in a recipe (about 75% as much instant yeast is needed). Instant yeast also produces more gas, and faster, than regular dry yeast - this makes it great for short fermentations or "five-minute" bread doughs, but not very ideal for recipes that require longer fermentation or proofing. If used in a dough with a longer rise time, instant yeast may result in over fermentation. Over-fermented doughs will tend to collapse back on themselves, and become gloppy and shapeless as the yeast begin to multiply and break down the structure of the dough, effectively turning it into a starter.


Because yeast is a living organism, it is very temperature sensitive. In cold conditions the yeast is inactive, and in warmer ones it wakes up and begins to react. At around 140° F, yeast dies. When a recipe calls for active dry yeast to be mixed with warm water or milk, the temperature should be no greater than 110° F.


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Alright, class - what have we learned today? We learned that Pacman farts CO2, and that bubbles are fun to photograph... oh, and we learned the difference between Baking Soda and Baking Powder, and Active Yeast and Instant Yeast! We also got distracted part way through learning about things and started watching youtube videos, which led to this video demonstrating the sheer explosive power of baking powder when mixed with water: Baking Powder Experiments (click to view). Yay, internet!





Friday, January 11, 2013

Sushi 101 - Ready, Set, Roll! (FAK Friday)



Everything You Need To Know To Make Sushi At Home!





If I could choose one food to eat for the rest of my life... sushi might just be that food. On any given day, at any given moment, if you ask me what I'm in the mood for, I will say sushi. Always.

The Brother and I are the only ones in our family who like sushi, and whenever we're together we try to make a little time to go out to eat, just the two of us. For Christmas he got me a sushi kit, equipped with nearly all the things I would need - just add fish. Can I just say I'm the luckiest sister ever?

I've made sushi once before with friends, and have always meant to make it myself... but since those friends have moved away, and I don't know many people who enjoy sushi, it's never been something I've been willing to do all by my lonesome. With all the tools I need on hand, though, I no longer have any excuses!


Last week was the first Friday of 2013, and the beginning of my quest to expand my culinary know-how. My goal for this year is to make an informative blog post every Friday about whatever I'm learning at the time. Right now I'm calling it 'FAK Fridays', which stands for "Feeding my Appetite for Knowledge", and is also a nod to the term FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions). Suggestions for a better acronym are welcome.



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SUSHI 101




There's a common myth about sushi which I'd like to debunk... and that is that sushi is far too difficult, expensive, and involved to make at home. You might be surprised to find that you can make restaurant quality sushi right in your own kitchen! Preparing sushi is actually simpler than many other foods, so do not be dissuaded by the lengthiness of this post - I've simply tried to be as thorough and explanatory as possible.

The first time you make sushi it may seem like a bit of an investment. There are a few tools you will need to make good sushi, and perhaps some ingredients you don't normally have on hand. Sashimi grade fish can also be a little pricey, but once you have all the necessary equipment and pantry ingredients you will find that sushi at home is actually quite economical, especially if you serve a small crowd. Sushi can also be a fun experience, so once you've got the hang of it you can invite your friends and turn it into a build-your-own buffet!

I've provided as much information as I could think of, as well as plenty of photos, so forgive me for the length. I've included instructions for cooking sushi rice, slicing fish, and creating rolls near the bottom of this post, so feel free to skip ahead if that's what you're looking for. If you notice any errors in the information below, or can think of anything to add, please share in the comments section at the bottom of the page!


A little history: Sushi first developed as a process of fermenting fish between two layers of vinegar-soaked rice. The process was a way of preserving the fish and breaking down it's amino acids - this produced a sour flavor, as well as the "fifth taste" unami. The fish was fermented for a long period, and then the rice was discarded. Somewhere along the line, the process changed to eating the fish with the rice, and shortening the fermentation process. By the 1800's, sushi had become one of the first forms of 'fast food' - the fermentation process was abandoned all-together, and was therefore very quick to prepare and easy to eat with one's hands.
The word "sushi" originally meant "sour-tasting", and today actually refers to the vinegar-seasoned rice, rather than the fish itself (as sushi can be made with any ingredients, not just fish).


Sushi v. Sashimi: Many people seem to think these two words are interchangeable, but in fact they are two different things. Sushi is one of a couple things - either a pillow, or small oval-shaped bed, of rice with fish placed on top (called Nigiri), or a sushi roll (called Maki), which may consist of any number of ingredients wrapped in rice and seaweed (Nori). Sashimi, on the other hand, is simply slices of raw (or sometimes lightly-cooked) fish, which are usually eaten before sushi at the start of the meal, like an appetizer.

There are also other types, and sub-types, of sushi rolls. Some of these are: Futo-Maki (thick rolls), Hoso-Maki (thin rolls, which are probably most standard), Ura-Maki (literally, "inside-out" roll, so called because the rice is on the outside of the nori), and Te-Maki (hand rolls, which are cone-shaped and do not require a rolling mat to make).


What is Sashimi Grade Fish, and where can I buy it? A common misconception about the term 'sashimi grade fish' (or sometimes called 'sushi-grade') is that it simply means the fish is fresh, organic, or comes from clean waters. Hopefully your fish is all of these things, too, but what 'sashimi grade' actually means is that the meat has been flash-frozen to a temperature below 4° ferenheit, and held at that temperature for at least 24 hours to kill any parasites that may be living within the fish. No matter how clean or 'organic' your meat may be, fish can carry dangerous parasites and must be sashimi grade if you plan to eat it raw. When buying sashimi grade fish (or any fish, for that matter) it should be bright in color, moist and firm to the touch, and either smell like the ocean or not at all. Of course, sushi can always be made with veggies, tofu, egg, shrimp, or cooked fish to avoid these risks all-together.

Sashimi grade salmon (left) and tuna (right)
If you want to make your sushi with raw fish, you will have to decide on what kind of fish you want, and where to buy it. You can always try asking your fish monger (the nice people behind the counter at your local fish market) if they carry anything suitable for eating raw. Some fish markets carry fresh (thawed) sashimi-grade fish, and can even help you out by filleting or slicing things a particular way. Remember that not all fish is okay to consume raw, so be sure to clarify before purchasing that it really is sashimi grade!

Another option is to check your local Japanese or Asian Market, if you're lucky enough to have one nearby. The fish may be presented as fresh (thawed), but more often can be found vacuum-sealed in the freezer section. Fresh fish should be purchased the day, or night before, it is going to be used, and kept refrigerated at all times. If your fish is frozen, keep it that way and thaw it in the fridge the night before you're ready to use it.

Sashimi-Grade fish is also available online from a site like Sushinut.com - this is a highly rated site with a good reputation for quality products. They also offer a wide variety of fish which may be harder to find elsewhere.


Sushi Rice: Sushi rice is a short-grain variety of Japanese rice (Japonica), or sometimes short-grain California rice. It is most often white, but can also be found brown. Here in the States it is typically (and conveniently) labeled "sushi rice".
Sushi rice, and other short-grain varieties, contain a lot of starch which is what gives sushi it's sticky quality. To prepare, the rice is rinsed very thoroughly to remove excess starches on the outside of the grain (believe it or not, the rice has far more starch than we want!) and then cooked either on the stove, or in a rice cooker. It is then folded with a mixture of seasoned vinegar (called Sushi-Su) to flavor it and give it the proper texture and sheen. The finished rice is called "Sushi-Meshi". I've provided instructions below for cooking the rice on the stove, but if you have a rice cooker feel free to follow the directions provided with it.


Sushi Condiments and Accompaniments: Sushi is almost always served with three basic things - soy sauce (or tamari, also known as shoyu), wasabi paste (which, here in the States, is actually a mixture of horseradish, mustard powder, and food coloring... but that's okay, because it's also what we're used to getting in most restaurants), and pickled ginger (gari). The proper way to use these accompaniments is to stir a small amount of wasabi into a shallow dish of soy sauce, and then dip the sushi lightly (fish-first, if there's fish on the exterior of the rice) into the sauce. A piece of sushi is meant to be eaten in one bite, two at most. The slices of pickled ginger are meant to be eaten in between pieces of sushi as a pallet cleanser (although here in the States, many of us like to put the ginger right on top of the sushi and eat it all together - something that would probably be cringed at by most sushi-chefs). These items can be found either in Asian Markets, or in the International isle of your regular grocer.

Other sushi condiments include sauces, such as Eel Sauce (called Tsume, used to top Unagi and other rolls), and Spicy Mayo (used in spicy salmon or tuna rolls), just to name a couple of my favorites. These are only a couple of the many sauces that can be found inside, atop, or along-side sushi.
In addition, rolls of sushi are often rolled or topped with toasted sesame seeds or fish roe (eggs). There are many different types of roe used in sushi, but some of the most common are Masago (capelin roe), Ikura (salmon roe), and Tobiko (flying fish roe). You can find these in many Asian markets, or at specialty fish stores.

In Japan, sushi is often served with warm sake (to star the meal) and green tea.


Equipment / what you will need:
  • A bamboo sushi mat, called a Makisu (or a bamboo place mat would probably work, as well)
  • Plastic wrap (such as Saran Wrap)
  • Sushi-rice, or other short-grain rice
  • Rice cooker, optional (I made my rice on the stove and provide directions below) 
  • Rice vinegar, sugar, and salt for making the Sushi-Su (the vinegar solution for flavoring the rice) 
  • Large wooden, glass, or ceramic bowl for mixing the rice, along with a wooden spoon or rice spatula (it is important that these be non-metallic!)
  • Very sharp, non-serrated knife (it is important to have a sharp knife for sushi, especially if you plan on slicing raw fish)
  • Sheets of nori seaweed (this is available in the International isle of common grocers, as well as Asian markets)
  • Small bowl with 10 parts water and 1 part rice vinegar (or about 1 cup water and 2 TBSP vinegar - this is called te-zu, or hand-vinegar, and is for dipping your fingers and knife into to keep the rice from sticking)
  • Fresh vegetables of choice (cucumber, avocado, bell peppers, asparagus, spinach, mushrooms, etc.)
  • Sashimi-Grade fish, or cooked fish, or crab meat, or cooked shrimp, or cooked tofu, or scrambled eggs, etc. 
  • Soy sauce (or Tamari), pickled ginger, and wasabi paste. You may also wish to have some Japanese mayonnaise, plum sauce, or other sauces for adding to rolls, but this is entirely up to you. 
Note: you may also need a pair of fish tweezers, used for plucking the pin-bones from fish fillets, but for the most part fish will be sold already de-boned. 




Cooking Sushi Rice

Cooking sushi rice on the stove can be a tricky thing to do, and many suggest avoiding it all together by using a rice cooker. If you own a rice cooker, by all means use it, otherwise I found this method to work very well. The recipe I've provided will make about 4 cups of cooked rice, which is approximately enough to make 10 hoso-maki (regular-sized sushi rolls). It is very difficult to cook an amount less than 2 cups dry, and is not recommended.

For the rice (Sushi-Meshi):
2 cups dry sushi rice, or short-grain rice
2 cups + 2 TBSP water, plus more for rinsing

For the seasoned vinegar (Sushi-Su):
1/2 cup rice vinegar
2 TBSP sugar (this amount can vary based on taste)
1/2 tsp. salt

Some versions of Sushi-Su use a bit of powdered Dashi (fish stock) or a small piece of kombu seaweed to flavor. These are optional, and I've left them out for simplicity's sake.
You can also find pre-made bottles of Sushi-Su (often labeled "sushi vinegar") at Asian markets, but note that these will be made with different ratios, or different flavors added.

Method:
1.    Place the dry rice in a large bowl and cover with cool water. Run your hands through the rice, swishing the grains around between your fingers. The water will become very milky. Tip the bowl to one side to drain off the water, then scrunch the rice around with your hands. Don't squeeze hard, just rub the grains of rice together to further clean them. Washing away the powdery starches on the outside of the grain will keep the rice (once cooked) from turning into a gluey-mush. Cover the rice with water, and repeat the swishing, draining, and scrunching action another 3-4 times, or until the water is almost clear. Drain the rice completely.

First rinse, the water is very milky  | scrunch gently to rub the grains together |  final rinse, the water is mostly clear

2.    Place the rice into a medium saucepan, and add 2 cups plus 2 TBSP fresh water. Set over high heat, and bring to a boil, uncovered. As soon as the water begins to boil, cover the pot tightly and reduce the heat to it's lowest possible setting. Set a timer and let the rice cook for 15 minutes. No peaking - do not remove the lid during this time! When the timer goes off, turn off the heat completely and let the rice stand for another 10 minutes, again, without removing the lid.

3.    While the rice is cooking, make the seasoned vinegar (sushi-su). Combine all the ingredients in a small saucepan, and stir over low heat until the sugar and salt have just dissolved. Do not bring this mixture to a boil, as it is considered to mar the flavors. Set aside to cool until the rice is ready.

4.    When the rice is finished cooking, transfer it to a large, non-metallic bowl. Large wooden bowls (called hangiri) are traditional, but glass or ceramic will work as well. Just use the widest non-metallic bowl you have, as the rice will need plenty of room. You will also need a rubber spatula, wooden spoon, or rice spatula (again, the important thing is that it is non-metallic).

Pour about half of the sushi-su (vinegar mixture) evenly over the rice, and fold it in with your spoon or spatula. Make vertical slashes down into the rice with the edge of your spatula, then scoop the rice up the side of the bowl and over itself. Work gently so as not to mush the rice together - the goal is to separate the individual grains so that the rice is coated evenly, and isn't too dense.



While cutting and folding the rice with one hand, use the other to fan the rice (if you don't have a hand-fan, a paper plate or piece of cardboard will work... I just grabbed the package of nori to fan my rice with!). Fanning the rice helps it cool faster, and creates a glossier finish and more desirable texture.

After a little mixing, give the rice a taste. It should be mildly sweet and tart, but if there isn't enough flavor for you feel free to add the remainder of the sushi-su. Continue folding and fanning the rice for another 5-10 minutes, or until the rice is just slightly above room temperature. The rice should be shiny and individual grains clearly visible - not mushy.

5.    Sushi rice is best used fresh, and should not be stored in the fridge as it will become dry and hard. If you  aren't going to use the rice immediately, cover the bowl with a warm, damp towel to keep it moist.




Slicing Fish

There are a few things to know about slicing fish, but the number one most important thing is to use a very, very sharp (and non-serrated) knife. Once you have that, the rest is easy!


1.    Sashimi Grade fish can almost always be purchased pre-cut into a long rectangle, which is easy to slice into strips for sashimi or sushi. If your fish is not cut this way, you may need to fabricate (prepare it) yourself. I won't go into all the details of filleting fish, but for mine it was necessary that I remove the skin (by making a horizontal incision near the tail, tilting the blade down towards my cutting board, and working the blade back and forth up the length of the fillet to separate the meat from the skin). I then sliced off the thinner sides of the fillet (which I cut into lengths to use in sushi-rolls) and was left with a rectangular piece of meat. You may also need to run your fingers up and down the surface of your fish feeling for pin-bones - if you feel any bones, use fish tweezers to pluck them out.

Here I'm using sashimi grade salmon, which I bought frozen and thawed overnight in the fridge. I removed the skin (on the left) and trimmed the edges, then inspected the fish for any pin-bones (right)


2.    When slicing fish, always use a very sharp knife, and make your cuts in one fluid motion. Do not saw back and forth, as this will damage the delicate meat. Always slice against the grain of the fish.
There are several different types of slices used for making sushi. The main ones you will need to know are the rectangular cut (Hira Zukari), the angle cut (Sogi Giri), and the paper-thin cut (Uso Zukuri). All of these are made by slicing against the grain at the end of the fillet.


Food-safe disposable gloves are optional, but clean hands are a must when working with your sushi ingredients!


3.    Here I am demonstrating the angle cut (Sogi Giri). For each cut the basics are the same. Start your cut with the heel of your blade, then pull the knife back (towards you) and down, finishing with the tip of the knife on the cutting board. Cuts should be made in one fluid motion, with no sawing back-and-forth (which can damage the fish). Angle cuts, as the name suggest, are made at a slight angle. These are mostly used for topping Nigiri, but can also be used as Sashimi. Rectangular cuts are made with your blade perpendicular to the cutting board. These are the most common slices, and can be used for Sashimi, or cut into matchsticks and used to fill rolls. Angle cuts and rectangular cuts are typically made about 1/2-1 cm. in width, depending on how tender the fish (tougher white fish is sliced thinner, to ensure it won't be chewy). The paper-thin cut (Uso Zukuri) is the same as the angle cut, only it is made very thin (usually about 2mm in thickness). These can be used as garnish, or rolled onto the outside of Ura-Maki (sushi that has been rolled with the rice on the outside of the nori).




Ready, Set, Roll!

Once your rice is cooked and all of your ingredients are cut into thin matchsticks (here I'm using bell pepper, carrots, cucumber, and avocado) you're ready to roll. Have an area where everything is easily within reach, including your rice and  a small bowl of te-zu (1 cup of water plus 2 TBSP rice vinegar). You will also want to have a clean towel or dish cloth nearby for wiping your hands and knife blade as needed.

Have your mise en place ready! (Is there a Japanese word for mise en place?)

1.    First wrap your bamboo mat in plastic wrap - this will help keep things from sticking, especially if you plan to make Ura-Maki (rolls with the rice on the outside).  To assemble a roll, place a sheet of nori onto your prepared mat. You can use one full sheet of nori, which will make a thicker roll that can hold more ingredients (futo-maki), or fold the sheet in half and tear it down the middle to make smaller (standard-sized hoso-maki) rolls. Nori has two sides to it - one shiny, and one slightly rough. You want the rough side facing upwards, so that it will be in contact with the rice (this will help the rice and nori stick together, and leave the shiny side out for presentation).

2.    Dip your fingers into the hand-water (the te-zu) and rub your hands together, shaking off any excess. You want your hands damp, but not dripping. This will prevent the rice from sticking to your fingers and making a mess. Re-wet your hands as necessary. Grab a handful of rice and place it directly onto the nori, and spread it gently into an even layer. If you plan to make your roll with the nori on the outside of the roll, leave a small gap of no rice at the top and bottom edge of the nori, leaving a space of about 1/4-1/2 inch. If you plan to make your roll with the rice on the outside, spread the rice right up to the edges of the nori, then gently flip the entire thing over on your mat, rice-side down.

Here I am making a roll with the nori on the outside. Note the space between the rice and top edge of the nori - this will ensure that the roll will seal properly. 

Here I am making an ura-maki, a roll with the rice on the outside. Here the nori is covered all the way to the very edge with rice, this way when one edge of the roll meets the other the rice will stick to itself to seal the roll shut.

3.   Place whatever ingredients you like in a line down the middle of your rice/nori, overlapping each other slightly. Don't add too much, or your roll may not seal shut. If you'd like you can smear a little wasabi, Japanese mayonnaise, or other sauce down the center of the rice to add a little extra flavor.

Pick up the bottom edge (closest to you) of the bamboo mat, and use it to roll the nori into a tight cylinder. Roll with your thumbs under the edge of the mat, and your fingers holding the ingredients in the middle to get a nice tight roll. Once one edge of the roll meets the other, give the whole thing a firm but gently squeeze. Try to apply even pressure to ensure the roll is sealed, but do not squish it too tightly. Once the roll is sealed, use your dampened fingers to press flat against each end of the sushi roll, to firm the rice and keep it from spilling out the sides.



4.   To slice the roll, dip the tip of your knife into the hand-vinegar, then point the knife upwards to let the water drip down the blade. This will keep the rice from sticking to your knife, and also keep the nori from catching on the blade. Slice your roll in half, using a sawing-motion and very little down-ward pressure (a sharp knife is important, because you don't want to squish the roll). Line up the two halves, and slice them into thirds to create six equal pieces. Congratulations, you've made sushi! An extra (and optional) step for rolls with the rice on the outside is to roll them in toasted sesame seeds or fish roe, as demonstrated in the left photo below. I've cut my roll in half and am coating half in masago, half in sesame seeds.



After your first roll or two, you'll start to get a feel for how much rice to use, how damp your hands should be to keep it from sticking, how many ingredients will fit, and how tightly to roll. Before long, you'll be a sushi  master!



Of course, rolls aren't the only part of a sushi plate...




How to Make Nigiri



Nigiri is nothing but a small oblong-shaped ball of rice with a little wasabi paste and fish on top. It is exceedingly easy to make.

1.    Dampen your hands in the te-zu, and grab a small ball of rice (about 1-2 TBSP). Roll it around in your hand to make an oval.
2.    In your other hand, pick up a piece of sliced fish (or cooked and butterfly'd shrimp, or other ingredient). Try to always handle raw fish only with your finger tips, as the palm of your hand may be too warm. Using your index finger, smear a very small bit of wasabi onto one side of the fish (or shrimp, etc.). This will add a bit of heat, and also help the fish adhere to the rice.
3.    Place the oval-shaped ball of rice on top of the slice of fish, and press it down slightly, molding it to the desired size and shape. Flip the nigiri fish-side up, and apply a small amount of pressure around the sides and bottom of the rice once more, to ensure it will hold together. Do not squeeze hard, as you want the rice to be tender (not dense) when eaten. Done!

Making Salmon Nigiri




The Anatomy of a Sushi Plate


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Itadakimasu!
(Japanese for "I humbly receive", said at the beginning of the meal and similar to saying Bon Appetit!)


There's nothing quite like sipping sake and eating fresh sushi in your pajamas, in the comfort of your own home. Am I dreaming? Is it really this easy? Somebody pinch me.

Reading over this post I'm beginning to think I shouldn't be calling it "sushi 101"... maybe "sushi, the compendium" would be more apt? What can I say, I like to be thorough! And, now that you probably know more than you ever wanted to know about sushi, hopefully you'll feel a little more confident in making it yourself. 


Now, if you'll excuse me...

Itadakimasu!






Monday, January 7, 2013

Lemon Blueberry Pancakes - Homemade Pancake Mix Two Ways


Lemon Blueberry Ricotta Pancakes
Lemon Blueberry Ricotta Pancakes, and Homemade Pancake Mix - recipes in post


Pancakes are like happiness. They're warm, and fluffy, and melting, and sweet... they're like pillows of flavor, clouds of yumminess, and make weekend mornings say *sunshine*, even if they're really cloudy and grey. I mean, come on... they've got the word 'cake' in them!

That's why I wanted to make pancakes this weekend. Here, in Michigan, in the heart of winter... I could use a little sunshine!

Lemon Blueberry Pancakes, 1/3

I'm as supportive of local, seasonal ingredients as the next foodie, but after a month or two without warmth and sunlight I get a hankering for fresh fruits and summer produce such that I throw up my hands and pay the exorbitant prices for a pint of simple berries... but I don't regret it. Blueberries, you were so worth it!
I also reach for citrus during the winter, because it's not only available year-round, but cuts through the grey skies and kicks the winter blahs in the behind. Lemons are like ninjas, in that way. Behind-kicking ninjas.

I've included two recipes in this post - one for Make-Your-Own Pancake Mix, which I like to have on hand for busy weekday mornings, and one for these Lemon Blueberry Pancakes, which are a perfectly decadent weekend treat.


Honey Comes from Bees, Apples from Trees, but Pancakes come from Heaven
My apron which says, "Honey come from bees, apples from trees, but pancakes come from heaven" - it's only my favorite apron ever!

Most mornings I'm in no mood to measure, whisk, whip, or otherwise use any brain-power to prepare my breakfast. Which explains why you don't see a whole lot of breakfast recipes around here. But that's where this homemade pancake mix comes into play! Making it up before-hand is easy and inexpensive (and way better than store-bought), and means that I have it on hand for those busier mornings when all I have the energy for is to mix in some eggs and milk.

This mix is ideal for buttermilk pancakes, but if you're like me you probably don't always have buttermilk on hand... so let me share with you a little trick: Add a splash of white vinegar (about a TBSP) to a 1 cup measure. Fill the cup with regular whole milk, give it a little stir, and let it sit for 3-5 minutes to sour while you grab the rest of your ingredients. Viola, buttermilk!

This is hands-down the best pancake mix I've used, which makes me think store-bought mixes are doing something funky to their ingredients... because all it is is flour, leavening (baking powder/soda), salt, and sugar. I mean, come on... how easy is this? Too easy, that's how.

Homemade Pancake Mix
Homemade Pancake Mix


Make-Your-Own Buttermilk Pancake Mix

Dry Mix
3 cups all-purpose flour (could probably be subbed with other kinds of flour, but I haven't experimented with any)
1 1/2 tsp. baking powder
3/4 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt
1-2 TBSP sugar, depending on how sweet you like it (I don't use much sugar in the mix, because I know I can always add more later).

To make (serves 3-4)
1 cup of mix
1 cup of buttermilk (or whole milk mixed with a splash of white vinegar)
1-2 eggs (I like two, but that's just personal preference)
2 TBSP melted butter
Splash of vanilla extract, or other flavoring
Fruit/berries, nuts, chocolate chips, or any other add-ins you like - optional


Dry mix: Whisk together all ingredients, and store in an airtight container in a dry place for up to several months (or to the expiration date of your baking powder, whichever comes first). I like stick a label to the side with directions for preparing, so I don't have to remember any measurements.
To make: Beat the eggs and stir together all wet ingredients. Add to the dry ingredients, and mix until just combined (don't worry about lumps!). If you're using any fruit, nuts, or other add-ins, mix them in at the end. Lightly grease a pan or griddle over medium-high heat, and pour the batter in 1/4-1/2 cup amounts. Watch for bubbles to break on the surface of the pancake, then flip and cook on the second side until lightly browned. Finished pancakes can be kept warm in an oven preheated to it's lowest temperature until ready to serve. Serve with butter, syrup, fresh berries, powdered sugar, etc.


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Having a good basic pancake mix on hand is great for busy mornings, but on the weekends I'm perfectly happy to take my time, especially if it means making something a bit decadent. Whipping the eggwhites for these is an extra little step that is well worth the effort, and a dollop of ricotta in the batter adds a whole 'nother level of lusciousness. I chose to top mine with honey instead of syrup, because I like the way honey and lemon and blueberries play together. Maple syrup, agave, or a bit of powdered sugar would do fine as well.

I chose to use lemons and blueberries because they suited my mood the best. It may not be very original, but it sure is tasty! Other combinations of citrus and fruit would work just as well, though (think, orange & strawberry, lemon & raspberry, lime & blackberry...). The possibilities are endless!

Lemon Blueberry Pancakes, 2/3
Lemon Blueberry Pancakes

Lemon Blueberry Ricotta Clouds (I mean... Pancakes)
Inspired by Sunday Brunch by Betty Rosbottom, via Juanita's Cocina
Serves 3-4 (small servings, but filling)

1 cup buttermilk pancake mix (recipe above)
2 eggs, separated
1 cup whole milk
3/4 cup full-fat ricotta cheese
1 1/2 TBSP lemon zest (or orange or other citrus zest)
1 TBSP lemon juice
1 tsp. vanilla extract
3-4 drops almond extract*
Pinch of salt
1 pint blueberries, fresh or frozen, plus more for garnish (or other fruit/berry)
Butter or oil, for the pan

*I like to use a tiny bit of almond extract in my pancakes. It isn't enough to make them taste 'almondy', but rounds out the flavor and adds a little extra something... shh! It's my secret ingredient!

Method
1.    In a bowl or glass measuring cup, combine the milk and lemon juice. Set aside.
Measure the pancake mix into a separate bowl, and set aside.
Separate the eggs, and place the whites into a very clean glass or metal mixing bowl, or the bowl of your stand mixer, and set aside.
2.   Mix together the egg yolks, ricotta cheese, lemon zest, and extracts. Add in the milk and lemon juice mixture, and stir well. Pour into the bowl of pancake mix, and stir until just combined (don't worry about any lumps).
3.    Using a hand or stand mixer, beat the eggwhites along with a small pinch of salt to medium-stiff peaks. Gentle fold half of the whipped eggwhites into the pancake batter to lighten it, then the rest of the eggwhites. Fold until well-combined, but try to work gently to keep the whites from deflating.
4.   If you're using frozen berries, toss them with a spoonful of flour, or more pancake mix - this will keep them from streaking your batter, and prevent them from sinking to the bottom. Add your berries to the batter, mixing gently.
5.    Heat a skillet or griddle over medium-high heat, and grease lightly with butter or oil. Pour or ladle the batter in 1/4-1/2 cup portions, and cook 2-3 minutes, or until the edges begin to set up. (Note: Because of the ricotta in the batter, you probably won't see any bubbles on the surface of the pancake to tell you when it's time to flip. When you think they might be ready, use your spatula to peak under the edge and see if they're browned.) Flip, and cook for another 1-2 minutes, or until golden. Serve with fresh fruit, honey, syrup, powdered sugar, or whatever you like.




Lemon Blueberry Pancakes, 3/3



Congratulations, it's officially the weekend - one bite of these and it doesn't matter what day it is!